Last modified: 2024-10-27 20:23:59
< 2024-10-26 2024-10-29 >I switched the Bambu printer to LAN mode but had some trouble getting it to work.
Apparently if it's on LAN mode then you need to install a MicroSD card otherwise it won't work. I don't see why that's any different between LAN mode and Cloud mode, but installing a MicroSD card solved it.
I had an idea for how these could be 3d printed. Basically tilt it up at 45 degrees while it prints, and have the stand be print-in-place with a knife-edge bearing, and the stand sticks up vertically so that when you rotate it around it lifts the counterweight up off the bed.
Make the knife edge stick "upwards", and be part of the stand, and the beam will just have a triangular hole through it, so it will be sort of an upside-down knife edge.
And we'll put a load of "holes" in the counterweight to make it heavy. And use Ruari's idea of standing the coins up vertically so that we can make it shorter, and get diameter and thickness measured in one go.
How do we converge on making it balance? Trial and error?
Bambu Studio can tell us the expected mass of the printed part, but not the centre of mass.
The other option is to model infill manually and print it 100% solid, and use FreeCAD to tell us where the centre of mass is? That is perhaps the right thing to do if you are picky about where the centre of mass ends up.
So it would print something like this:
I got the second motor mounted printed & installed. With an indicator on the spindle it wasn't reading zero deflection, but seemed maybe better than before.
I put in a new 6mm end mill and a piece of aluminium and tried to cut it, and the vice shifted. I tightened the vice up and did it again, and the vice shifted again and the brand new tool broke. Darn it.
I think I haven't been bolting the vice down very well because I've felt the head of the screw slipping into the mounting hole of the vice, and assumed the thread was starting to strip, so stopped pushing harder. I've switched to using washers now and I can put a lot more torque on the bolts without feeling like it is starting to strip.
Maybe this was the cause of the elusive chatter?
I intend to come up with a complete plan for making Sovereign Scales out of the 3mm brass sheet, and carry it out on Tuesday.
Sovereign Scales (sheet metal)
Something like this for the score lines?
On each side that is a single line with a 2mm ball-end mill, and then another line with a 90-degree v-bit.
It would be better to not have to use the ball-end mill. The reason that is there is so that I can bend it around by more than 90 degrees.
One other option is to do multiple passes with the v-bit, and another is to buy a v-bit with a larger angle.
A larger angle v-bit is not super cheap. I'll go for multiple passes.
That will be better. We'll do the middle score first to rough out most of the material, and then shift to each side to do the other ones, and then the surface we're left with will look nicer than the rough first one.
It looks like this should go a bit further than 90 degrees:
Though not as far as I expected! Oh well, let's just go with it, that's probably fine.
Also, all this time I've been thinking I need to fit these beams into a stand in order to test them... but I can just put a pin through and hold the pin in my hands.
I do think I want a folded sheet metal stand as well. That will also want the score lines on the "bad" side, so that the folded-up sides are from the "good" side of the sheet.
So the plan is:
Easy enough.
For now I won't worry about tiling the plate with them, I'll just make one.
Oooops! I have been taking the centre of mass under the assumption that the Sovereign is a solid gold cylinder 1.53mm tall, 22.05mm diameter. But that is not right! That would weigh 11.2g but a sovereign weighs 7.98g.
I can set the density of my cylinder to 13650 kg/m^3.
Here's a first pass at a stand:
To make the pins:
Put a long 1mm rod in a pin vice. Have a plate or something with a hole in the middle, to the depth that matches the required length of the rod plus the thickness of the cut-off wheel. Push the pin vice on to the rod with the rod in the plate, so that the rod sticks out by the right amount. Chamfer the free end. Cut it off. Repeat until you have enough, all chamfered on one end. And don't bother chamfering the other end.
Current mood:
Setting the top contact Z distance to 0.2mm instead of 0 on the support material makes all the difference.
I don't know why the infill pattern is visible through the wall on the top piece but not the bottom one. Did I use a different profile?
For the first floor I used "0.20mm Standard", can't remember about ground floor. When I loaded it up in Bambu Studio it came up with 0.20mm Standard, so maybe I used the same one? Not sure.
Here's a plan for the rest of the house parts:
What are the chances of all of that succeeding?
I have it back on the cloud service and hooked up to Bambu Handy so that I can start it and monitor it remotely, in case I forget first thing.
< 2024-10-26 2024-10-29 >